CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

Martha Tilaar Group is a well-known company in the cosmetics field that operates mainly in Jakarta, Indonesia. Created by DR. (H.C.) Martha Tilaar in 1970 with one beauty salon located in her parent’s, Yakob Handana, house at Jl. Kusuma Atmaja no. 47 Menteng, Jakarta Pusat (MarthaTilaarGroup.com), Martha Tilaar Group has since then produced and provided innovative and high-quality beauty products. Their vision is to become a leading global beauty company with natural and Eastern values, using research, development and modern technology in giving an added value to customers. While their mission is to operate a world-class beauty company based on Martha Tilaar Group’s core value (MarthaTilaarGroup.com).

This company has a value and objective to achieve their vision and mission called DJITU, an acronym of Discipline, driving their employees to commit, be punctual, and maximize company’s profit; Jujur (Honesty), using employees’ honesty to maximize company’s growth, health, and improvement; Innovative, being able to come up with innovation and provocation is deemed as a valuable asset to the company, in order to achieve breakthrough; Tekun (Diligent), focusing on doing and improving relevant issues regarding  and the responsibility of helping the company reaches its target; and Ulet (Perseverant), the readiness to work hard, be fully-committed, and persistent in getting tasks done (MarthaTilaarGroup.com).

Through their business activities, Martha Tilaar Group has also made sure to apply four pillars as their foundation: beauty culture, meaning that they would support Indonesia and the cultivation of its culture; beauty education, meaning that they always try to educate Indonesian women who are interested in beauty through building schools and training centers, holding beauty classes, and working with educational institutions; beauty green, meaning that they focus on environmental care for better future; and empowering women.

The market and consumer segment of Martha Tilaar Group is women all across Indonesia from different backgrounds who want to maintain and care about beauty. They include women with all kinds of skin colors, skin types, and face shapes. With a wide range of products in their sub brands, Martha Tilaar group has successfully catered to this market, making them one of the top choices for their customers over and over again.

As a company that dabbles in the cosmetics world, it’s no denying that Martha Tilaar Group has faced and is still facing some fierce competitors. Some of the new entrants are Emina Cosmetics (2015) and Make Over (2010), both subsidiaries of PT Taragon Technology, Moko Moko (2015), Mineral Botanica (2015), and Madame Gie (2019). As brands geared towards the younger generation, all four of them are coming in hot with fun colors and affordable prices. They are definitely a competition towards Martha Tilaar Group’s brands catered towards teenagers, Belia.

Founded in the 60’s-90’s and still thriving even in this generation are Viva (1962), Mustika Ratu (1975), La Tulipe (1980), Wardah (1985), and Purbasari (1993). All six of them are a classic and timeless choice for elegant women, making it difficult for Martha Tilaar to come up with a unique value proposition that would differ them from their competitors. Another thing is that most of these brands usually already have a loyal following. Founded decades ago, all these brands have accompanied their customers from when they were girls back in the day until they have become the women they are now. It’s not a rare sight to see women sticking to Viva’s legendary eyebrow pencil or Wardah’s famous foundation, because people love the comfort of things that are tried and true. “Why bother buying things from other brands when the brands I’ve stuck with have always worked well all this time?” That’s a question Martha Tilaar Group has to answer in order to come out on top of the cosmetics industry.

 Not only do Martha Tilaar Group face competition from local brands, they are also competing with companies from overseas, namely The Body Shop from the United Kingdom and The Face Shop from South Korea. All three of them share one thing in common: green products. There has been a noticeable shift in the way consumers behave, and that is the increasing concerns for the environment. More and more people are demanding companies to leave a minimum carbon footprint, change their existing packaging into ones that are biodegradable, paying more attention to Corporate Social Responsibility or CSR, and so on. In their home country of Indonesia, Martha Tilaar Group is lucky enough to sort of be the pioneer of this movement, with practices such as planting 500 trees (MarthaTilaar.com), plant material standardization, and green cultivation and organic farming. However, these other two brands have been implementing the same thing as well, and with the entrance of The Body shop in 1992 and The Face Shop in 2004 to the Indonesia market, it becomes apparent that they have caught the eyes of Martha Tilaar Group’s target market.
In order to secure their place in the industry, Martha Tilaar Group has done several efforts in their marketing operations. One of their strategies is to build a brand image that markets themselves as classy and sophisticated. This is interesting, considering other companies in the beauty industry usually use the low price strategy. Take Make Over, for example. They’re known for being so cheap that a lot of their products don’t even cost more than IDR 30,000 (Afriyani, 2020). However, the high price that Martha Tilaar has imposed actually makes them appear more elegant and exclusive instead of cheap like their competitors.

Another marketing plan that they have developed is strengthening their online presence. This is a brilliant move, seeing that this decision is made upon noticing the increase in social media consumption now during the digital era. Widarto, acting as the Managing Director of PT Martina Berto Tbk (the parent company of Martha Tilaar Group), has said himself that he would like to keep strengthening Martha Tilaar Group’s digital marketing by maintaining informative, interactive, and educative communication with their audiences. They would also like to increase collaborations with Key Opinion Leaders (otherwise commonly known as KOL) and social media influencers with high follower count and impact. This move even allows them to gain a profit increase of 12,4% (AkuratNews.com).

CHAPTER II

ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION

2.1. The Five Forces of Competition Model

            This model allows its users to assess the cosmetics industry, its competitive intensity, and whether Martha Tilaar Group is attractive when compared to its competitors that have relatively homogeneous competitive structure and success potentials (Grünig & Kühn, 2018). These are the five forces of the model:

2.1.1. Threat of New Entrants

There is one criteria that stood out the most when we’re talking about the threat of new entrants, which is customer loyalty. I would like to base my judgments on that. A customer loyalty can be defined as the customers’ likeliness to repeat orders with Martha Tilaar Group. This can be achieved through maximizing customer’s satisfaction and positive experiences through delivering value. The main goal of all these practices is so that Martha Tilaar Group’s customers don’t turn to the competitors.

In this area, I’m quite certain that Martha Tilaar Group is doing so-so. Their effort in keeping their customers engaged is good, but not great enough. I say that with confidence because Martha Tilaar has received a Top Brand Award back in 2015, that’s given only to the brands that customers trust, are loyal to, and consider as their top choice (MarthaTilaarGroup.com).

However, that doesn’t mean that there isn’t an area for improvement for Martha Tilaar Group. One thing that I found is that Martha Tilaar Group is lacking a membership system. Therefore, there is a threat from new entrants. However, Martha Tilaar Group isn’t completely lacking in this field. What’s left to do is to improve on what they are already working on.

2.1.2. Bargaining Power of Suppliers

The bargaining power of suppliers refers to the degree of power the suppliers have in setting prices and conditions (Milani, 2019). An important thing to note is that the less options of suppliers we have, the more they hold the bargaining power, because we have no other suppliers to run into. It would be harder for a company to negotiate in this case. Another thing that could affect this degree of power, of course, is the firm’s ability to substitute the input materials with something similar, or be their own supplier.

That’s exactly the case with Martha Tilaar Group. Since back in 2010, they have been continuously trying to improve their very own Kampoeng Djamoe Organik (also known as KaDO), a plantation business which main purpose is to cultivate plants, medicine, and aromatherapies native to Indonesia (KampoengDjamoeMarthaTilaar.com). Farmers would be trained on how to handle organic plants by experts, so that these resources could be used for production later on (Haraito, 2010). Originally, Martha Tilaar Group’s suppliers had been local horticulturists. However, as their company grows bigger and bigger each year, they wanted to be able to monitor the quality of their ingredients better. Thus, KaDO was born.

This is a clever move on Martha Tilaar Group’s part, because as their own supplier, they would be able to obtain the ingredients in the cheapest way possible, without having to rely on other parties.

2.1.3. Bargaining Power of Buyers

            Next up is the bargaining power of buyers, or the degree with which buyers can put firms under pressure with how they set their prices (Milani, 2019). Of course, the more options the buyers have, their negotiation power would be higher. While for the company itself, the lower the customers’ bargaining power is, the higher the company’s potential profit is.

So, what exactly are some of the things that influence customers’ bargaining power? First is buyer access and availability of information. Martha Tilaar Group’s products can be easily found anywhere. From local convenience stores such as Indomaret and Alfamart, drugstores like Watsons and Century, and even higher end places or shopping malls. Martha Tilaar Group’s products aren’t exactly rare or difficult to obtain. In this digital era, information can be spread like a wildfire. It’s quick, easy, and accessible to most. So Martha Tilaar Group’s customers won’t suffer from lack of information regarding the products, either. Second is sensitivity to price, which explains the degree to which purchases are affected by price level (Hiam, 2014). It has been shown in a research that especially for the cosmetics industry, consumers tend to be more price-sensitive and they adjust their consumption either by reducing consumption or by changing the brand (Chaubey, Yadav & Bhatt, 2013).

From the aforementioned factors, we can conclude that Martha Tilaar Group’s customers have a high bargaining power on their end.

2.1.4. Threat of Substitute Products

            Although it may seem hard to look for, there are actually a lot of products that could substitute cosmetics or makeup that brands like Martha Tilaar Group has put out. Two of them that I would like to highlight in this point are natural makeup and skincare; both of these alternatives perform the same function for the same customer groups, but are based on different technologies (Lambin & Schuiling, 2012).

Natural makeup is cosmetics that can be sourced right from nature. Some examples are coconut oil in exchange for lip balm, activated charcoal in exchange for eyeliner, and nutmeg powder in exchange for contour powder. The list could go on and on, because when a makeup is broken down, it’s basically just a collection of natural ingredients that one can find around them.

The second alternative is skincare. If a customer bought a foundation from Martha Tilaar Group, they could instead buy an essence from Avoskin, because both products offer the same function: evening the skin tone out. If a customer wanted to buy Martha Tilaar Group’s lipstick to mask out the dullness of their lips, they could instead buy Wardah’s lip balm that offers the same solution, which is brightening the lips by removing all the dead cells. There could be an unlimited amount of alternatives out there, but the important question is whether these products are accessible and effective for the customers or not. If both qualities are present in the substitute products, then it’s a major threat for Martha Tilaar Group.

Good for Martha Tilaar Group, that’s not the case. With natural makeup, it’s not as accessible and efficient as Martha Tilaar Group’s products. Not everyone has the access, time, and/or skills to extract oils from a coconut for hours on end just to create a homemade lip balm. Not everyone is willing to go in the wild to look for charcoal that would then be transformed into an eyeliner. Most of the time, these people would much prefer buying makeup that is available in the stores, ones by Martha Tilaar Group included. It’s quite the same case for skincare. Because these products offer a long-term solution to skin problems (as opposed to makeup that’s more of a day-to-day quick fix to mask insecurities), skincare tends to be a lot pricier than cosmetics. It would be quite a high change of price for Martha Tilaar Group’s customers to switch from Martha Tilaar Group to skincare produced by other companies.

Therefore, the threat of substitute products is very minimum to none.

2.1.5. Rivalry Among Competing Firms

            When talking about rivalry among competitors, all companies want to be able to stand out by offering differentiation as it directly relates to customers’ buying behaviors. Otherwise, how is a company going to be special than any of the other ones out there? Of course, Martha Tilaar Group has been able to become the giant company that they are now because they offer exceptional values from time to time for their dearest customers, but let’s take a look at one of their greatest breakthroughs, which is hair products for hijab wearers or hijabi.

Wulan Tilaar, Vice Chairwoman of Martha Tilaar Group, noticed that all the other brands are competing for hijabis’ attention by releasing fashion and makeup products specially for them. Being one of the countries with most hijabi populations, all these brands are racing to enter this highly saturated market. But these brands fail to notice one essential thing that all hijabis need, and that is hair care products. In reality, a lot of hijabis deal with dandruffs, hair loss, and greasiness. Due to their head scarves, they would definitely need different products from non-hijabis, but sadly not a lot of companies paid attention to that. Tilaar even took a jab at her competitors, saying that shampoos with “halal” labels aren’t enough; because all of Martha Tilaar Group’s products are already halal by default. The main concern is how to offer these hijabis a solution for their hair problems. This is where Tilaar is a genius who can look out for opportunities, because she brought Martha Tilaar Group into the game and that’s how SARIAYU Hijab – Shampoo is born (Mix.co.id).

2.2. Five Business Level Strategy

Source: Adapted with the permission of The Free Press, an imprint of Simon & Schuster Adult Publishing Group, from Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance by Michael E. Porter, p. 12. Copyright © 1985, 1988 by Michael E. Porter. All rights reserved.

As shown in the figure above, firms can choose from five business level strategies. Measuring from their competitive advantage and scope, a firm can fall under one of these categories. After doing some research, it can be concluded that Martha Tilaar Group’s strategy falls under differentiation.

Price-wise, Martha Tilaar is pretty high up there compared to their competitors like Emina, Make Over, and Wardah. So, low cost definitely isn’t their forte. This is justified, however, seeing as Martha Tilaar wanted to build this posh image as mentioned in the Introduction. That’s how Martha Tilaar Group excels in the uniqueness instead, because they are different from their competitors. Other local makeup brands usually only take on the youthful, fun look with bright and popping colors, and shades that only matches light-skinned woman, while Martha Tilaar Group’s foundation shades range from light to dark, because they want every woman to embrace their natural beauty, unlike a lot of brands out there who force the beauty standard of being light-skinned to Indonesian women.

Martha Tilaar Group is also known for their diverse market; catering to women all across Indonesia and over the world with different backgrounds. That has actually become one of Martha Tilaar Group’s strongest points; they have products for every woman out there. Martha Tilaar touches on every possible market: for example, the Sariayu line is more mature, muted, toned-down, yet the Belia line is cheerful and color. Due to their distinctiveness and broad market, Martha Tilaar group falls under the differentiation competitive advantage.

2.3. Competitive Dynamics

            Competitors engage in competitive rivalry through competitive actions and responses in order to gain an advantageous market position. All of this results in competitive dynamics. To better explain this aspect, we explore the effects of varying rates of competitive speed in different markets on the behavior. Martha Tilaar Group themselves fall under the slow-cycle market, because their competitive advantages are shielded from imitation for long periods of time and imitation is costly (Hitt, Ireland & Hoskisson, 2016).

            Martha Tilaar Group’s biggest competitive advantage is KaDO, their own plantation business in which the plants would be used for the creation of their products. This isn’t something their competitors can just go ahead and do as well; a plantation business costs a fortune to make, not to mention the time and effort it takes to manage it. Martha Tilaar Group themselves are able to make this happen because they had the resources to do so and it was an amazing decision, because now they got themselves an asset that’s valuable for their operations, but can’t be copied by their competitors.

2.4. Competitive Rivalry

            Competitive rivalry can be defined as the ongoing set of competitive actions and responses that occur among firms to compete for an advantageous market position (Hanson, Hitt, Ireland & Hoskisson, 2016). First, let’s take a look at this analysis through the competitor’s side.

Market commonality can be defined as the degree to which two companies have overlapping products, services or customers in multiple markets (Williams, McWilliams & Lawrence, 2019). A survey conducted by CekIndo shows that Indonesia has more than 33,000 cosmetics products registered under Indonesia’s National Agency of Drug and Food Control (BPOMRI). Through this number we can see that the cosmetics industry in Indonesia is a very saturated market (CekIndo.com). When it comes to resource similarity, Martha Tilaar Group definitely has the upper hand. As aforementioned, Martha Tilaar Group has their own garden in which they get their resources from. Their competitors definitely don’t have access to this source and Martha Tilaar Group is relatively safe.

Now, let’s look at Martha Tilaar Group’s drivers of competitive behaviors. One of them is their motivation, which concerns their incentive to take action or respond to a competitor’s attack (Hoskisson, Hitt, Ireland & Harrison, 2012). In order to compete with their overseas competitor, Martha Tilaar Group is motivated to educate their target market of Indonesian women that international brands might not be able to create products that suit Indonesian’s skin. Martha Tilaar Group, however, is capable of providing that for them (Junida, 2015). Another one of the drivers is ability. In order to gain competitive advantage among their competitors, Martha Tilaar Group makes sure that most of their employees came from a highly educated background. As seen below, their workforce is dominated by those who at least have finished senior high education. They even have almost 200 employees with S1-S3 backgrounds.

Source: idx.co.id

Last but not least out of all the drivers is awareness. Martha Tilaar Group is very well aware of the turbulent market condition right now, especially now during the pandemic. To handle these changes, Martha Tilaar Group is willing to adapt and innovate their products to better fit the market right now. Case in point is their new products of hand sanitizers, hand gel, and hand wash. (Fadillah, 2020)

Now, let’s take a look at their likelihood of attack. Martha Tilaar Group has a first mover benefit, because they launched a preemptive attack to gain competitive advantage by their innovation, the aforementioned KaDO: a medium in which they would analyze and cultivate the aromatics used for their products (Mutiah, 2018). This is the first time ever that any cosmetics company has come up with the idea.

Another factor that influences likelihood of attack is quality and in terms of it, there’s no doubt that Martha Tilaar Group is winning the game. Their consistent quality in terms of producing beauty products have been so exceptional that they have been recommended by the Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia in Bucharest, Romania, as one of Indonesia’s top products (Kemlu.go.id). Last but not least, the likelihood of attack is determined by organizational size as well. Martha Tilaar Group has employed over 4,000 employees from the first time they were founded in 1970 (Linkedin.com), definitely a huge number for a huge company.

2.5. Type of Diversification

Of course, to get to their position right now, Martha Tilaar Group must have constructed an exceptional strategy that fits their business. To figure out how Martha Tilaar Group could have such high sustainability even after about five decades, we should analyze their revenue stream. The data below were gathered from the annual report of Martina Berto Tbk, which is the holding company for Martha Tilaar Group, made available for public through idx.co.id.

Source: idx.co.id

Source: idx.co.id

The first segment is one that is widely known and loved from Martha Tilaar Group; their cosmetics line. With reputable brands such as Belia that’s popular with teenagers who love bright and bubbly colors such as orange lipsticks and light-weight base makeup; Rudy Hadisuwarno for women and men hair needs such as hair wax and styling gel, and Sariayu that caters to a more mature demographic with their jewel-toned lipsticks.

The second segment is less popular and not known by many, and that is Martha Tilaar Group’s herbal line, or jamu as Indonesians more commonly know it. This segment is one that has been mentioned in previous points as KaDO. Their top products are tea with different benefits, for example Syzygium Tea which helps cure diarrhea, Red Ginger Instant to cure headache, and Centella Tea for immunity (KampoengDjamoeMarthaTilaar.com).

From the presented data, we can conclude that Martha Tilaar Group uses low level of diversification and a single dominant business, because they generate 95% or more (in this case 99.2%) of its sales revenue from its core business area (Şeker, 2020); cosmetics. This strategy works in their favor, because low level of diversification allows Martha Tilaar group to respond quickly to market changes (Borad, 2019), as proven time to time again with how they adapt to the pandemic by launching their own hand sanitizers, hand gel, and hand wash. Another advantage to this strategy is the ease that comes with managing it, because less diversification is a lot easier to handle compared to a high level of diversification.

Of course, either a high or low level of diversification has its own pros and cons. The important thing is for a manager to be able to assess their company and understand which strategy that fits them best. Once it has been done, a company would be a lot more successful, case in point Martha Tilaar Group themselves.

2.6. Value Creating Diversification

Firms seek to create value and save costs from economies of scope through two basic kinds of operational economies: sharing activities (operational relatedness) and transferring corporate-level core competencies (corporate relatedness). Martha Tilaar Group itself implements both operational and corporate relatedness.

From the operational relatedness point of view, both KaDO and Martha Tilaar Cosmetics share both primary and support activities. For the primary activity, they share marketing activities in the way products are promoted. Another example is their support activity, which is procurement. As described in point number 2.1.2, Martha Tilaar Group has created KaDO so that both subsidiaries could take advantage of the plants sowed there to include in their products, communicate with the same supplier, and purchase all materials in the same place.

From the corporate relatedness point of view, both KaDO and Martha Tilaar Cosmetics have yet again shared one of its most valuable intangible resources that has become the foundation for its proven competency, which is their marketing core competence. As a proof, both Martha Tilaar Cosmetics and KaDO utilize the same technique when promoting their products, through the excellence of their digital marketing.

CHAPTER III

SUMMARY AND SUGGESTIONS

In conclusion, Martha Tilaar Group is able to become the living legend that they are now, even after 50 years, because they have been able to formulate a strategy that fits their management and helps them achieve their goals. Martha Tilaar Group has faced some trials and errors during their time, but that’s to be expected and even necessary in order for them to grow better and stronger. Even up until this moment, Martha Tilaar Group is still learning how to improve and that’s very admirable of them to not let the success get the better of them. Not a lot of companies are open to criticisms or what their customers have to say, and ultimately that became one of the major reasons why their business fails. That’s why I hope that Martha Tilaar Group won’t follow in their steps. That being said, I would like to offer some advice I think could be useful after doing an analysis on their company and see what areas they are lacking.

When it comes to operational relatedness and activity sharing, it could be very risky, because one business is closely tied to the other, creating links between the outcomes. As the data shows, Martha Tilaar Group’s jamu industry isn’t doing great in sales; a stark contrast to its cosmetics industry that thrives against all odds. If the herbal industry can’t generate enough revenue to support the fixed cost needed to operate the shared facility, the cosmetics industry would be exposed to the possibility of losing this facility as well. The board of management at Martha Tilaar Group should take a step back and reflect on whether that’s a risk they are willing to take, considering their cosmetics industry brings in close to a 100% of their revenue. If the worst case scenario rolls around and the cosmetics segment can’t continue their production, then it’s game over for the industry that has been built from scratch, maintained carefully over the years, and losing loyal customers.

The other thing to be considered is whether or not Martha Tilaar Group could coordinate the practices between the two segments. With two businesses that’s deeply integrated and well-linked to one another, there needs to be some careful coordination in place, otherwise things could fall apart messily.

Another suggestion would be to implement a membership with points and rewards system. Take one of the aforementioned competitors, The Body Shop, for example. They have implemented a membership system where customers would be able to get additional points every time they shop at The Body Shop store, discounts on products, vouchers, and even free makeover. This strategy would inevitably have them customers coming back for more, because they feel like they get a lot of benefits that couldn’t be found in other companies. These features make customers feel like they are valued and treated specially. Martha Tilaar Group could definitely follow in The Body Shop’s steps and give it a few tweaks, making a Martha Tilaar Group membership different with exclusive offers.

An idea that I had in mind was to have a card in which customers could save their personal information and transaction history in. That way, when their birthday month rolls around Martha Tilaar Group could give them a little gift along with their purchase, maybe a small sample of their products, so that it acts as a promotion for said product as well. Once a customer has reached a certain number of points, they could exchange it for treatments at Martha Tilaar Group’s Salon Day Spa. This doesn’t only boost sales for their cosmetics, but also raises attention towards their salon that’s admittedly lacking in advertising.

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